Paphiopedilum gratrixianum x complex – vigorous hybrid orchids

Paphiopedilum gratrixianum x complex – vigorous hybrid orchids in flower – ideal as a gift or 1st Paphiopedilum plant.

These complex crosses have been grown to flower easily and quickly in the home, given the basic care.

Complex Paphs are the result of multiple generation breeding that began in the 1800s here in England. These tropical lady slipper orchids are bred for size, color and shape. They are the largest and longest lasting of the Paphiopedilums. These plants need water to sustain the large flowers, so be sure to keep it moist at the root system. Watering twice a week is best while flowering.

Standard complex hybrids are usually a combination of red, mahogany, purple, bronze and white. The flowers are very thick and waxy often having a lacquered look to them. The red hybrids can be either a smooth red, a brushed red or have some red suffused spotting. The complex spotted hybrids can vary in spotting patterns and overall colors from dark brown to a lighter bronze color for the petals and lip. The colors can vary and the spotting can vary. These do have amazing substance though. These can take up to 10 years of growing before they reach their first flowering.

Occasionally, we will individually list them for flower quality on select Paphiopedilum plants.

PLEASE NOTE: Since this is a Seedling Population (not a Mericlone which produces exact duplicates), the picture is for illustration purposes only. No two plants will be the same from this cross, and they will flower in a range of possibilities coming from the two parents.

Paphiopedilum ‘Slipper Orchid’ Culture from Elite Orchids

Water – How often you water will depend on whether your plant is potted in bark or a sphagnum moss mix and the amount of light and heat. Paphs need more frequent watering than some other orchids because they have no pseudobulbs to store water. Bark retains less water so will require more frequent watering – every seven days is usually sufficient (14 in winter). Care should be taken not to overwater to avoid rotting the roots. Soon you will be able to tell by the weight of the pot whether or not it is time to water again. If in doubt, wait a day.

When you water an orchid you want to let the water run through the plant for a minute or so. Place the plant in the sink and use tepid water. Be sure to let the plant drain completely. Try not use tap, salt-softened or distilled water. Rain water is best!!

Light – Paphs belong to the “low” light group of orchids. An east window is ideal; west or south windows can also be used if shaded with a sheer curtain. You can tell by the leaves if the plant is getting too much light. A reddish tinge on the edges means you need to provide more shade for your plant. If your paph does not re-bloom, it may not be getting enough light. In the greenhouse we use a 50% shade cloth.

Temperature – Paphs generally enjoy the same temperatures that we do in the home; ideally, 10-14c at night and 20-24c during the day. Keep in mind that temperatures close to the window on a windowsill will be colder or hotter than your general house temperature. Paphs can be grown outside in mild climates. Protect plants during cold temperatures by avoiding moisture on leaves or in the crowns and in summer from burning from the sun.

Humidity – Appropriate humidity levels are fundamental to successfully growing Paphiopedilums. In a greenhouse 70% to 80% is required all year round with only a slight tolerance allowed on hot days in Summer. Plants will thrive where light, air movement, temperature, humidity and water at the roots are successfully controlled.

In the home low humidity is usually a problem for growing orchids so this must be supplemented by placing the plant on an upturned saucer inside of a larger saucer containing an aggregate topped up with water. The plant must always sit proud of the water level in the saucer which should be topped up as required.

Fertilizer – Any balanced orchid fertilizer (look at the numbers on the container, 20-20-20, etc.) can be used to fertilize your orchid. Weakly (¼ strength), weekly works well. Once a month use clear water to flush any accumulated salts from the potting mix.

Growing media – The most common is a bark based mix. A suitable compost is a mix of bark (60%) and large pumice (40%).

Tips – Use a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity around your plants. Be sure the pot does not sit in water as this will rot the roots.
– Give your plants room for air to circulate around them. Crowding of plants can lead to problems with insect infestations and fungus. A small fan will help provide good air circulation around your plants.
– When the blooms are finished, cut the spike down to the level of the leaves. Continue watering and fertilizing and within a year a new growth will spike to begin the blooming cycle again!

Pests and diseases – Plants should be regularly checked for pests & diseases and swift action taken.

The 2 main problems affecting Paphiopedilums are mealy bug and bacterial rot. In small collections mealy bug can be eradicated by close inspection of individual plants and the use of rubbing alcohol and a cotton wool bud. In larger collections a suitable insecticide can be applied on a regular basis.

Bacterial rot can be extremely dangerous to Paphiopedilums, particularly Erwinia and it is important to take action at the first sign of attack. Removal of affected leaves with a clean knife is the first step, followed by spraying with a suitable fungicide. Many growers use hydrogen peroxide and ground cinnamon on affected areas as it seems to have a cauterizing effect.

Elite Orchids *  www.eliteorchids.com * info@eliteorchids.com *